HOROLOGY

MB&F Horological Machine No 1

Jean Dunand watches

Jean Dunand Watches – Shabaka $500,000

Jean Dunand watches rank among the most expensive collectible wrist watches. When they launched the luxury Shabaka wristwatch in 2007, it intrigued the interest of watch collectors world wide. This Jean Dunand watch is a unique designer watch inspired by Egyptian art.

Jaquet Droz Watches

Jaquet Droz Watches Quantieme Perpetuel Circlee  $ 50000

Jaquet Droz watches are unique and exquisitely designed. This watch brand usually makes its wristwatches in very limited numbers for sale, so it is not surprising to know that watch collectors keep their eyes open for one.

IWC Watches Kurt Klaus Edition

IWC Watches – Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Kurt Klaus Edition - $ 75,000

IWC watches is probably the only one among Swiss watch brands to have an American founder. Their Da Vinci wristwatch collection is something all watch collectors are sentimental about. Interestingly, these fine luxury wristwatches are stainless steel timepieces with white watch faces. The Da Vinci wrist watch stunned the watch collecting world with its complications and mechanical diversity.

Hublot Watches Bat Bang

Hublot Watches – Bat Bang All Black Tourbillon - $150000

Hublot Watches does it again with the Bat Bang All Black Tourbillon wrist watch. A unique blend of the past and future, this expensive and very collectible watch is the dream of every watch collector.

Girard Perregaux Watches

Girard Perregaux Watches – Laureato Tourbillon Regatta - $ 310,000

Girard Perregaux Watches have been around for almost two centuries and this watch brand has given its watch collecting fans some of the best ever wristwatches. These designer luxury watches are perfected from the research stage right up to the finished product with great care. Their latest fashion watch is the cool new Regatta wristwatch called the Laureato Tourbillon Regatta and this unique dress watch commemorates the finals of the 32nd America’s Cup.

Gerald Genta Watches

Gerald Genta Watches – Arena Biretro Gold - $ 20,000

Gerald Genta Watches come from an innovative and unique watch brand whose watches become collectibles that watch collectors keep a close track of.  The distinctive thing about Gerald Genta Watches is their constantly evolving designs. The Arena Biretro Gold wrist watch is a fine example of this.

TAG Heuer Monaco 24 Concept Chronograph

Watches for Life – BNB Concepts

If fine watchmaking today is about the secret life of time i.e. the mechanical movement and the craftspeople who build it, BNB Concepts S.A. in Switzerland would be Deep Throat.

Not a brand but a company responsible for mechanical innovations across many different brands, BNB Concepts is driven by the vision of CEO Matthias Buttet. In order to unlock further secrets from the vaults of timekeeping, Buttet came up with the Confrerie Horlogere in 2008 and enlisted seven craftspeople to its cause.

In 2009 at BaselWorld, the Companions of the Confrerie Horlogere showed off their first creations, as pictured here. On offer are Les Complications (limited to 10 pieces each), Les Classiques (small series) and Les Masters (unique or very small series).

Each watch is of course a reflection of the craftspeople who built it, not unlike Max Busser’s watches and those of the independent watchmakers. What’s also interesting here is that Buttet is offering a lifetime warranty for these pieces, showing just how committed he and his team are. Confrere Horlogere also guarantees that their watches use 100 percent Swiss parts.

Pilo & Co. Doppio Orario For Him & Her Watches

Pilo & Co. has released a watch for long distance relationships. It is a cute concept and the Doppio Orario (Dual Time) watches pull it off well. This way you can always know what time it is for them, even when you are so far apart. A sweet romantic concept personified in a functional watch. The timepieces come in male or female sizes, but each share a uniquely labeled feature, "his time" and "her time." The slightly larger watch face will be "My" time, while the smaller upper face will be the labeled with "his" or "her" time depending on the model.

The woman's version of the Doppio Orario comes in a steel case with or without diamonds (1.05 ct.) on the bezel, and each with a mother of pearl face, available in various shades. The men's watches have a black mother of pearl or an ivory colored face. Each watch has two quartz movement inside, with a single subsidiary seconds dial for the main time face. Each watch has also a few different strap options available.

Maitres du Temps Chapter One Black & White Watch Spotted

Ultra luxury watches are rare to spot, even online. We mostly have computer images to go off of, and the only time most of us will see many types of luxury watches are in select boutiques and on the rare collector (very rare). This is why it is so interesting to see this Maitres du Temps Chapter One Black & White watch in reality (well in a photograph). This real view of the $400,000 ultra watch proves that the timepiece lives up to its reputation. The Chapter One Black & White is an almost monochromatic "tuxedo" version of the Maitres du Temps Chapter One watch.

The Maitres du Temps Chapter One watch is hailed as a masterpiece by some people in the watch community which makes sense given the team of literal watch making masters behind the design both visually and mechanically. The Black & White version is in 18k white gold with a dizzying array of complications most notable of which are the polar placed moon phase and say of the week cylinder displays and manually wound tourbillon movement. The presence of the watch is breathtaking, because it is so luxuriously bold, and not necessarily because you have to love the design. Maitres du Temps did such a nice job making it a truly unique, yet classic feeling timepiece. The wrist in the image is lucky indeed!

Patek Philippe Pilot Watch Goes For $1.7 Million At Christie's Auction

I bet you've never seen this Patek Philippe watch before. That is because it was not known to exist, and is a one of a kind made in 1936. Earlier this month in May, this watch sold for just over $1.7 million dollars at a Christie's auction in Geneva. The buyer was a private Swiss museum, and they recognized the special watch for its value, especially as a unique Patek Philippe. The watch is chrome-plated nickel being large at 55mm wide and has some unique navigational complications and an hour hand that operates on a 24 hour scale (not 12 hour scale). I don't claim to understand the functions entirely, as I am no pilot, but the watch is set to measure a 360 degree circle. The minute hand makes a full rotation each 4 hours, and the two seconds hands rotate each 4 minutes. Really not sure about what that all does, but it has something to do with directional angular navigation. The time can still be read though, but on the 24 hour scale. This goes to show that no matter how peculiar they are, the watch collecting world simplly loves a rare Patek Philippe timepiece.

Hublot Big Bang King All Black Blue Watch

Does this watch make you think of a black eye? Well it isn't an eye sore, but rather the Hublot Big Bang King All Black Blue watch. Hublot has been messing with various colors for the standard Big Bang chronograph line lately, but I haven't see this type of attention on the Big Bang King which is a diver's style watch - and larger at 48m wide. I have to admit that I really think this is a sexy watch - somehow adding a virulent character to the otherwise somber color tone.

Diver watch elements on the Big Bang King include the 300 meters of water resistance, diver's style face with large legible dial, and the rotating diver bezel, of course. Here the bezel is made out of matte finished ceramic. The bezel numerals are in an attractive high relief that I am a fan of. The blue on the hands and hour indicators seems to almost exist only on the periphery, though you can tell the insides are colored black, the edges are all deep blue. You also have the blue insert between the bezel and the case. Most of the watch is in matte ceramic. Inside is the HUB1400 automatic movement. The blue alligator strap actually sandwiches a layer of rubber that makes it more flexible. Looking at the dial (sandblasted and rhodium plated) with the blues and black just makes for a great looking Hublot watch. Now that I think of it, as a diver watch I imagine the cold abyss of the ocean with colors such as this. The watch is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Franck Muller Triple Scale Chronograph Ratrappante Ref. 8883 Watch

This is the first new Franck Muller watch in sometime - which makes sense as the watch maker has had to lay-off people due to a reduction in demand. The development of a few watch is very expensive, especially with a maker like Franck Muller. They don't just get a movement from ETA and built a watch around it, but rather build their own movement, or have one made for them. This with the physical design of the watch takes years, and is a huge investment. For a watch maker to stay in the spotlight, they must release new watches on some regular basis, unless they want people to think that are going under. Well Franck Muller is not going under and this new Triple Scale Chronograph Ratrappante Ref. 8883 watch.

While the look of the watch is familiar to the typical tonneau shaped cases that Franck Muller is know for, the design and functionality of the watch is pretty unique. This watch has a lot going on both on the front and back of the watch, and all revolves around the chronograph functions. Actually instead of being flamboyant and flashy, this watch is almost a pure vintage style instrument. The watch face itself is smaller, and placed in the lower center of the face - with quite the tool like look (something I'd probably guess being on a Sinn watch or Panerai).  As the chronograph function is central to the Triple Scale Chronograph, it is quite impressive. Not only is it a split second double chronograph (rattrapante), but carry's over to the back of the watch for more functionality. It is actually rather clever because the functions on the back are rarely used, but are there when you need it, and it is probably not that big of a deal to take the watch off when using those functions. The rear features include a: tachymeter scale (measures speed), a pulsometer (measures pulse), and a telemeter (measures distance).

Inside the watch is the manually wound Franck Muller caliber 7002 with a power reserve of about 42 hours. If you buy this watch you get a personalized rotor made out of platinum. Even though the watch face itself decentered, you get a clear looking face with a subsidiary seconds hand. The case of the watch is actually steel, which will keep the price of the watch down a bit - though it will be high luxury in cost. Of course both crystals are sapphire and the watch is water resistant to 20 meters (not very much).

If you are thinking that this watch is sort of an odd one out for the Franck Muller line, you are right. The obvious "instrument" look of the watch is something new, and is likely a subtle hint from Franck Muller that watches are tools meant to be used and do have a functional component that is more important that just the mere look of the watch. Let's hope the message get's across.

Hands-On With The Perrelet Turbine Double Rotor Watch Collection

The Perrelet Turbine watch caused a lot of stir when the images of the watch that will be released in October 2009 were displayed here on aBlogtoRead.com first. Then the Turbine Collection video was leaked was really hit home exactly what the Turbine Double Rotor watch was going to look like in action. I think it is clear that this special timepiece collection is going to be a bit hit for Perrelet. A few days ago I go to experience pre-production models of the watch myself - and they are sweet!

There will initially be three models of the watch. Two in DLC coated titanium with black faces (one with the red behind the turbine blades, and one all black). Another will be in polished titanium. I got to see all three and here are the wrist shots! The craftsmanship and finish of the cases is impeccable. Surprisingly good even for prototype models. The tapering of the case toward the base goes to the turbine engine look, and the unique crown that is flush with the case is pretty well done. You can pull the crown out a bit, but there is also that little hoop that folds out. The watches are smooth all the way around without and harsh edges as well and the high grade rubber strap comes with a quality titanium butterfly deployment clasp that features perlage polishing on the inside.

You can get a great feel for exactly what the watches look like here. I wish you could see the turbine spinning in action - it looks so cool. Nothing like wheel spinners The finish in the turbine blades is a brushed polish, to give that an authentic aviation look. Like I said in my original review, the spinning turbines (that spin with the automatic rotor to wind the mechanical automatic movement) do not hinder the view of the hands which are nicely conspicuous. The naked titanium model is the easiest to read due to the high contrast of the hands. Each is covered in lume which is nice. The face of the watch as a nice deep feeling to it. You can look down into it and see all the layers. The periphery of the dial is sloped inward, and you can see the easy to view hour makers that make this more than simply a showy watch.

My favorite version is the DLC black version with the two-tone (black and red) dial. The spinning turbine looks the best there and will draw a ton of attention I am sure. Like I said, the polished titanium version is the easiest to read, and has the most industrial look. People will appreciate the finish on the turbine blades and the functionality of the timepiece. "Tool watch" lovers are going to choose this one. Fans of the still popular "phantom" all black watches will gravitate toward the mysterious all-black DLC model. As I hope you know, DLC is an amazing coating and will stay shiny and is damn hard to scratch. The watches will be available starting in about October 2009. Prices are going to be in the $7,000 - $9,000 dollar range. It is a pricey timepiece, but there is a lot of work in the details aside from the novelty of the functionality.

Turn the watch over and see the P-181 automatic movement through the sapphire crystal caseback window and you can tell that Perrelet is a serious watch maker. The decorated rotor is just the start, but the finish on the dial along with the blued screws is almost as nice a view as the face of the watch. At 44mm wide you'd think that watch was really big. You can see that even on two pairs of smaller wrists, the watch looks totally comfortable and not super huge. Just wait until I show you a 60mm wide watch I shot while on my trip. So if you are in love with the Perrelet Turbine Double Rotor watch collection as so many people seem to be, you'll have to wait at least until the fall, but they are coming.

Eterna Madison Watch With New Calibre 3505 Spherodrive Movement

Leave it to a very ordinary watch to showcase some cool new technology. This is really interesting because most watch brands would just go nuts with a wildly designed watch and marketing to tell the world about even the slightest movement improvement. This is actually quite a cool thing from Eterna. You should also know that Eterna actually started the major watch movement maker ETA before it was later acquired by the Swatch Group.

Here, the new technology is placed in the demure Eterna men's Madison watch. The new technology is called the Eterna Spherodrive and is a new type of mainspring barrel. That is the part of the mechanical watch the holds the mainspring, which is where all the power comes from. The mainspring is wound manually or via an automatic rotor. As the spring unwinds in a regulated manner, the power it released is used to power a mechanical watch. Every true mechanical watch that is out there uses some manner of main spring. As you can imagine, a mainspring is the heart of a watch's ability to be accurate. Sure there are many other things affecting accuracy, but it starts with consistency in the mainspring. The Spherodrive is a new type of mainspring barrel and has some interesting improvements. Here are some words directly from Eterna that sum up in general what the Spherodrive seeks to improve:

This invention is as efficient as its concept is simple. It provides the mechanical watch’s core element – its energy reservoir – with a straightforward, lubricant- free and ultra-efficient method of mounting. This eliminates virtually all the drawbacks watchmakers have had to contend with for decades.

The bearing mounting is not only a technical innovation; it also significantly improves the quality of a mechanical watch. The bearing is virtually maintenance-free since it is not subject to friction, but instead exhibits a rolling motion that requires no lubrication. The watch’s extended service intervals and service life, reliability and long-term accuracy will clearly be of major interest to consumers – quite apart from the fact that they will be wearing what is currently the most cutting-edge technology on their wrists.

To accomplish the above, you've noticed that the Spherodrive uses special types of ball bearings (zirconium oxide) that require no lubricant, it further features two, not one row of ball bearings. Also the "arbor" which is the features that holds the main spring barrel in place is richly advanced in the Spherodrive to be more stable, strong, and a better frictionless connecting point for the main spring barrel. You can see the two diagrams from Eterna. One that shows the traditional type of mainspring barrel assembly, and one that features the how the Spherodrive works. Older mainspring barrels did not utilize ball bearings, but just oil and the arbor - the new system changes all that. Further, the new movement changes the style in which the winding stem is connected to the mainspring barrel, effectively removing the connection so that the two connect only when necessary

The first movement to house the new technology is the Eterna in-house calibre 3505. It is a manually wound movement with 56 hours of power reserve. While the new calibre 3505 movement is simple, it is a starting point for what will be a base for future Eterna movements that will expand on the Spherodrive technology. Adding of course further complications and soon an automatic movement I am sure. There is a lot more to this tech than I am able to understand and properly explain, but I think you get the gist of it. A really nice piece of useful technology and improvement in mechanical watches that is simple and not expensive. The best part is that Eterna makes a nice window into movement where the mainspring with the Spherodrive technology peeks through the dial. Spherodrive watches will be available at select Eterna dealers starting in the Fall of 2009.

de GRISOGONO Fuso Quadrato Two Time Zone Watch

From one of the coolest and quirkiest luxury watch makers around, de GRISOGONO, comes the Fuso Quadrato watch for 2009. Aside from the interesting shutter-style complication the watch looks pretty stylish in its 47mm 18k pink or white gold glory. The rounded square case will look good particularly good on the wrist as sometimes harsh geometric angles looks awkward on the organic shapes of our hands. While the watch is clearly from the de GRISOGONO line, it is a very new design direction for the company. Powering the watch is the automatic mechanical de GRISOGONO DF 21-90 movement with hours, minutes, and a second time zone hand.

I am not convinced that the size of the dauphine hands is big enough for me. They are the perfect size for the smaller dial that appears on the machine textured dial when you open up the shutter, but when closed - they look stubby, really stubby. I'd have a feeling that they might look more odd if they where larger. On the sometimes hidden dial is a clever second time zone hour hand. Use it with the standard minutes hand for the other timezone. This is to be distinguished from a GMT hand, which shows the time on the 24 hour scale. The main dial is black via a PVD application, with the applied gold numerals that make for a very pretty face.

In trying to determine the type of person this watch is best suited for, I keep coming back to the fact that I want to wear one. de GRISOGONO succeeded in giving the watch two personalities, as each face is different. The Roman numeral inner face is more classic Swiss watch in flavor, while the rest of the watch is almost Italian in charm and design. Not forgetting the shutter complication (which de GRISOGONO oddly refers to as a "diaphragm"), you have a very rare type of complication only seen on other de GRISOGONO watches. It is operated by the sliding lever on the left of the watch case. The soft edged case on the Fuso Quadrato itself has unique independently attached lugs connected to an alligator strap. Available by fall most likely, the watch will likely be in the $30,000 plus range.

Alain Sauser 'Elements' Ladies Jewelery Watches

These pretty watches remind me of some of the new Bertolucci women's timepieces, but that is just fine. This is the Elements Ladies collection (Water, Terre, and Feu watches) from Alain Sauser (isn't that an exemplar of luxury brand sounding names?!). The collection is part of a larger collection of timepieces that share the same type of case that is rendered in so many ways, with so many designs. I couldn't write about them all though. The concept of creating a line of watches for the elements is common, but this one really makes me see the inspiration in each. The water watch really looks like it should be in water, and you can see the cracked dirt in the Earth model. Not sure where the "Air" model is, somewhere flying around perhaps.

Each watch comes in a 38mm wide 18k white gold case with a bevy of applied jewels including 685 diamonds, and either sapphires, rubies and yellow sapphire, or brown and black diamonds. The jewels are each set by hand. Not sure, but I believe the watches have quartz movements. Dauphine hands complete the elegant look, and the straps are fun and friendly to go with the theme of each watch. Look for the Alain Sauser Elements Ladies Jewelry watches available soon.

Vacheron Constantin Les Masques Watches: The Final Collection

This is the third and final collection of "Les Masques" (the Masks) watches from Swiss watch maker Vacheron Constantin. The watches are in a limited edition of 25 sets, each with the four watches. My understanding is that you must get all four together. A few lucky people out there will have the entire collection of 12 Les Masques watches from all three collections. Each watch is 40mm wide and has a Vacheron Constantin in-house made automatic mechanical movement. The watches come in a different metal each including 18k yellow, pink, and white gold, as well as one watch in platinum.

For this collection the watches have been inspired from four new historic cultures. We have the pictured mask from China, as well as masks from Indonesia (Oceania), Gabon in Africa, as well as from Mexico. Each is done marvelously and by hand. The masks are incredibly hard to make taking a long time even from master craftspeople. Once a mistake is made, they often have to start all over again. Each watch has a different poem (in French) on the dial. Complications include the hours, minutes, date, and day - each displayed dia a disc visible on four corners of the watch. Really nice timepieces for those who connect with the emotion and history behind the masks and their respective cultures.

Hands-On With the Louis Moinet Chronovintage 60 Minute Chronograph

This is a curious watch, but kind of a cool one. The limited edition Louis Moinet Chronovintage has a movement from the early 1970s and is a special type of chronograph. It measures 60 minutes, but only the minutes. Thus, you don't get a count for the seconds. Still, when you activate the chronograph the hand moves slowly from one minute to the other, so you do actually get some visual idea of what part of the minute you are stopping in. It is sort of a variation on the functionality that a rotating diver's watch bezel provides.

The tonneau shaped case is 40mm wide in steel with two available dial colors (white and black). The dial decoration is rich and complex with a fantastic level of depth. Turn the watch over and you can see the decoration of the vintage movement. The addition of the 9 o'clock orientated subsidiary seconds dial enhances the vintage feel. I think a watch like this Chronovintage fits in well with the Louis Moinet line, but the theme of the brand is to be "retro." The Chronovintage is part of a limited edition of just 60 pieces. Available now at select Louis Moinet timepiece dealers.

Salvatore Ferragamo Timepieces Collection 2009

Florence-based fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo has unveiled their six timepiece collections for 2009. Embodying the brand’s focus on beauty, each piece in the six lines features the Italian house’s signature craftsmanship, with a winning combination of luxury, creativity and style.

Many of these collections draw their inspiration from the brand’s rich history, with the Palagio collection tracing its roots to traditional Florentine architecture, the Assoluto and Gancino collections designed around the iconic shape representing the Ferragamo brand, and the Vara and Salvatore collections paying tribute to the fashion house’s famous ladies’ shoes.

The collections’ Italian design flair is supported on the inside by Swiss-made mechanical movements, provide precision on top of an array of styles from the trendy to the classic, from the stylish to the luxurious.

Customize your look with a touch of color with the Vara’s eye-catching interchangeable straps, add a touch of glamour with the diamond encrusted Assoluto, or pick the F-80, an automatic Tourbillon in an 18K gold case for the modern jetsetter, produced on demand in limited edition.

BNB Concepts' Confrerie Horlogere offers magnificent watches with lifetime warranty

BNB Concepts S.A. in Switzerland has a big hand in bringing about mechanical innovations across many different brands. It seems like they are dedicated to getting out secrets from the vaults of timekeeping. Matthais Buttet had come up with the Confrerie Horlogere in 2008. Now in 2009, at BaselWorld, the craftsmen assigned to this cause showcased their creations. The gorgeous watches are Les Complications (limited to 10 pieces each), Les Classiques (small series) and Les Masters (unique or very small series). One look at them is enough to take your breath away. The designs reflect the individual creativity of the people who built them. A noteworthy feature is that the time pieces come with a lifetime warranty and 100 percent Swiss parts. The watches look truly magnificent.

BMV joins hands with OGIO for the stylish and trendy Golf Cartbag

Pita Windmills prototype timepiece tells time without hands and crown

An innovative watch is something that needs to shared with everyone and I stumbled on something that is not only innovative but extremely classy and timeless. It a hot new prototype from Pita Barcelona. The unique feature of the Pita Windmills (Molinos) prototype is that there are no hands nor a crown. Time is indicated through floating hour and minute gear wheels that rotate around the dial. The time shown in the picture is 12:15, to give you an idea of how it works and looks.

Patek Philippe wristwatch put up on auction in Geneva for $1.3 million

Early last year, we had witnessed the auction of the Patek Phillippe Yellow Gold 2499 Fourth Series which had been sold for well over $271,000 (Its lower limit estimate). This year, another exceptionally fine and rare 18kt Rose Gold from Patek Philippe’s famous reference 2499 Second Series is expected to fetch a record price at Christies Important watch sale in Geneva today. The wristwatch features perpetual calendar chronograph with moon phases and baton numerals from 1960 and is expected to fetch a record price of $880,000- $1.3 million. The highly coveted version embodies several elements which makes it one of the world’s most valuable timepieces, made by one of the world’s most dignified watchmakers.

Milus Merea TriRetrograde Seconds Skeleton Joaillerie Watch For Ladies

The Milus TriRetrograde watch and movement is really the novelty that put the watch maker back on the map a few years ago. Their latest creation using the unique triple retrograde seconds counters is this lady's Merea TriRetrograpde Seconds Skeleton Joaillerie timepiece. This watch does not frame the TriRetrograde complication as much as past Milus watches have, though the fun-to-watch novelty that counts each minute in three retrograde counters of 20 seconds each is still there. The dial is partially skeletonized with decorated rose gold bridges and perlage polished steel below. The case in rose gold makes interesting use of diamond and ruby jewel decoration that has the look of the dial extend on to the bezel. Inside the watch is the automatic movement unique to Milus, and attached to the timepiece is a red stingray leather strap. I do enjoy the "barbell" style lugs. Definitely a standout watch that is hard to miss. Not for everyone's tastes but enough people will be smitten.

Bovet Fleurier Jumping Hours Fleurisanne Watch

Bovet really makes one of the classiest jumping hour watches out there with the Fleurier Jumping Hours Fleurisanne timepiece. The 42mm wide 18k rose or white gold watch uses the popular and attractive standard Bovet watch case style that always reminds me of a pocket watch meant to be worn on the wrist. The watch is also one of the most beautiful skeletonized watches, designed from the start to be displayed and decorated (with fleurisanne hand engraving). The automatic jumping hour movement is quite elegant in its operation. The central disc is used for the hours and the mechanism powering it is visible as well. The correct hour is shown in the aperture window. The minutes are displayed on a disc around the face with the indicator being at the 12 o'clock position. For night visibility, the numerals have applied Superluminova.

The top-mounted crown and lug ends have applied sapphire crystals which adds an additional and expected element of luxury to this antique-styled watch. You also have the option of diamonds instead of sapphire crystals if you so wish. The case sides are also engraved to match with the face. and a custom hand-stitched alligator strap completes one of the most unique luxury watches available today that combines functional and old-world styled charm. I think it is a fantastic timepiece that feels right, but certainly strays from the norm of most luxury watches out there today.

After months of anticipation, MB&F has finally revealed their first Horological Machine, the HM1. Combining art, sculpture, and the best micro-engineering, the first product of Max Busser's planned series of partnerships with the world's top watchmakers sets the tone for a limited line of extraordinary watches. HM1 is a unique new design with 376 parts, 81 functional jewels, and yet just 30 watches per year are planned for production over the next three years.

Piaget Emperador Coussin Large Moon

The new moonphase watch from watch manufacture and high jewelry house Piaget is a tribute to the poetic beauty of this complication. The moonphase keeps track of the phases of the moon and this one will remain in synch with the moon for more than 120 years.

Historically, the moonphase was important to the resurgence of mechanical watchmaking and Piaget honors this fact by unleashing this domineering 12mm indication.

Set at 12 o’clock, the indicator is a white gold disc that has been heated to boiling point and then cooled, leaving it scored with craters, not unlike the surface of the moon. It is gradually revealed by a mobile mask that covers and uncovers the disc.

The watch is powered by the new caliber 860P which is housed in a 46.5mm Emperador case. It has a 72-hour power reserve and is available in both white gold and red gold.

Montres DeWitt releases their Haute Joaillerie

In time for the festive season, DeWitt watches of Switzerland present three splendid timepieces decorated with the purest diamonds – both brilliant and baguette cut – in their classic “Imperial Columns” bezel style. Their Seconde Rétrograde Joaillerie Academia, Alma Haute Joaillerie, and skeletonized Tourbillon Mystérieux Academia models are the lucky recipients of this brilliant diamond treatment, and to sparkling effect. All three are available through special order only, and are numbered and certified by Mr. Jerome De Witt himself.

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars

Luxury Swiss watchmaking maison Audemars Piguet revealed the fruits of its research and development labors at the recently concluded Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie. The watch itself is a time-only proposition, with power reserve indication (56 hours), but it is a horological masterpiece.

This is actually visible, since the escapement assembly (at 4 o’clock in the image) is meant to function dial-side. Given that it operates at 43,200 vibrations per hour and features the double balance spring direct-impulse escapement (revealed to the world in 2006), the visible action of this escapement is a treat.

With this series-production watch, Audemars Piguet demonstrates both the stability of their balance assembly and the necessary improved shock resistance. No information is available at present on the rate of the watch.

This is a massive 17 2/3 lignes movement, with the open three-dimensional aesthetic showing off the true scale of the engine. It also confirms the brand’s commitment to producing large watches, with this model cased in platinum 250 at 46mm. Given the current real estate of this movement, calibre 2908, it will be interesting to see how the brand executes a chronograph or perpetual calendar display.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Swiss luxury watchmaker Audemars Piguet recently released its Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph, its latest addition to the development of the extreme sports watch.

The goal of Audemars Piguet was to demonstrate the watch’s ability to perform in any number of hazardous environments, including urban sprawl. The watch had to offer exceptional legibility, functionality and precision – and it does.

Offering the same strongbox case that is a signature of the Royal Oak Offshore series and the Audemars Piguet calibre 3126/3840, the latter two areas were a sure thing while luminous hour markers, skeleton hands and silver-colored small seconds counter ensure optimal readability, day and night.
 

Concord C Lab Series

If the 2008 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève recognition of the Concord C1 Tourbillon Gravity is any indication of the things to come, watch enthusiasts can look forward to more groundbreaking timepieces from this resurgent Swiss brand.

The Concord C1 Tourbillon is a project of Concord’s specially setup unit called the Concord C Lab Series, whose mission – “to transform watchmaking” – is both a bold claim and a confident proclamation.

And the first step, according to Concord, is to ditch traditional watchmaking codes and plonk for the unconventional. This means exploring offbeat designs of time displays and experimenting with new untried materials from various industries such as aerospace.

Take the C1 Tourbillon Gravity watch for example, the tourbillon cage is fitted outside the movement and case, seemingly disconnected from the watch mechanism. A window on the side of the perpendicularly positioned tourbillon cage displays the small seconds.

For 2009, Concord is ready to unleash the C1 QuantumGravity in Basel come March 26, a timepiece Concord says is “free and disruptive”. Watch out for it.

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